A WIND MITIGATION is an inspection that looks at certain aspects of a dwelling that may help it be more wind resistant during storms. WE do not know the amount of savings but insurance agents can often run a program to give you an idea of the savings. Sometimes they must send information off to an underwriter. Based on the media and feedback, it is estimated that over 90% of existing houses have one or more of these wind resisting construction features and may qualify for some discounts. You may wish to check with your insurance agent to see if you might benefit.
The form consists of 9 questions. (It is very helpful to actually review the form as it is very specific about some items. You can bring up the form online at
or
EACH, single question has the possibility of providing a discount. You do not need to get a specific type of answer on ALL questions in order to get discounts. In brief, the questions are
(1) (Basically) WHEN was the house built? (Different building codes were in effect during different years and in different locations.)
(2) When was the predominant roof covering installed and when was the permit pulled, if any? (Roofs with permits pulled after April 1, 2002 will generally get some premium discount.) Proper documentation may be required. An issue with the 2001 FBC is in regards to the class of shingle allowed. The 2001 FBC, which came into effect in March of 2002 calls for a different class of shingle than allowed under previous codes. The only way to distinguish the class of shingle is by documentation. (You cannot look at a shingle and tell.) The necessary documentation comes in various forms, such as a final issued on a permit or detailed receipts of the materials used showing the address where installed.
(3) What is the weakest form of roof deck attachment? (How is the roof decking connected to the trusses and what are the materials?) As you review the form itself for this question, you will see that options range from 6d (“penny”) nails to varying spacing for 8d nails, staples, “other” and/or a defined use/ installation for dimensional lumber/ Tongue & Groove decking.
Flat roofs may cause unknowns on the form, which may render the roof deck and wall connections as UNKNOWN. So unless you have a 2002 or newer roof, it may not be worth doing the inspection.*
(4) What is the weakest roof to wall connection? This runs from nothing to double wraps and anchor bolts. We have created a “Quicklist” for roof to wall connections. To qualify as a clip/strap, material must be:
- an acceptable connector,
- connected with 3 nails,
- within 1.5 inches of rafter) and have a shim if not against the rafter with maximum clearance remaining of not more than 1/4th inch,
- attached to the exterior wall/ plate,
- go OVER the RAFTER to qualify as a wrap
- and they must exist on EVERY rafter
…. THESE are some of the items that the inspector is trying to verify for this question. See questions on the form for more details. This is one of the more difficult questions of the form. We understand that if the dwelling has clips or better, there is some possibility of a discount. Check with your agent.
(5) Is the Roof Geometry a HIP roof? A “true” HIP roof is the preference to get a discount. This shows the difference between a hip and gable roof.
As many roofs are not that simple, the NEW guidelines state that to qualify as a HIP roof there can be “no other roof shapes greater than 10% of the total building perimeter.” The other shapes are also defined on the form. Additionally, the form states, “porches and carports that are only attached to the fascia or wall of the host structure and not structurally connected to the main roof system are not considered in the roof geometry determination.”
NOTE: If there is a flat roof section of the dwelling, that is structurally attached, unless there is documentation to answer the questions on the form (as there is seldom an attic entry to gather this information) it may not be worth having this inspection.
(6) Are the gable ends braced? (If applicable) There are varying requirements to meet this. One of them is that there is an EIGHT foot 1 x 4 piece of board crossing over at least 3 floor joists at least every 4 feet of the span of the gable in the proper location (along the bottom). Ask your agent if a discount is provided either WITH OR WITHOUT bracing. Experience has shown that even with retro fitting to meet the requirements that no discount was provided.
(7) Wall construction notes the percentage of frame, masonry or concrete. It is also verifies if masonry construction is reinforced. Gable end walls are also included in the wall construction. (Note the gable walls are most often frame construction, which are counted in the FRAME percentage.)
You can read more about these at these sites as well:
(8) Secondary water resistance (SWR) barrier in place? SWR can be a number of types of underlayment/strips/adhesive applied when a roof is installed and retrofit options exist* for SWR in the attic. Documentation for TOP-of-roof applications is required to get this box checked, as it is not possible to determine otherwise. Sufficient view photographs or letter from installing contractor stating that the strips were installed are good documentation. A review of the attic can show proper installation of the allowable type of polyurethane foam roofing adhesive, which is often an after-the-fact retrofit for SWR. (The report states that “standard underlayments or hot mopped felts are not SWR)
(9) What is the WEAKEST form of (allowable) protection on the structure's openings? This includes any opening including windows, doors, gable end vents, garage doors etc. There are strict guidelines that must be followed and documentation needs to be obtained from either written materials or from stickers on the openings. Bottom line, for BEST reduction, they must have approval such as Miami Dade or Fla.Bldg. Code PA/TAS 201, 202 AND 203- tests for pressure, cycling and impact- or similar-see form for all options. The following site has product approval information that can verify approvals:
You can bring up the form online at
Should you wish to retrofit the dwelling to provide some of the items on the mitigation form, you might like to review this website:
http://www.floridadisaster.org/mitigation/rcmp/hrg/content/structural/wood_frame_roof_to_wall.asp
Here are some additional websites that contain more information regarding wind mitigations- also known as UNIFORM MITIGATION VERIFICATION INSPECTIONS.
http://www.mysafefloridahome.com/
http://www.ascouncil.org/news/newsroom/HUDdocs/HUDPATH_Task2-SummaryReport-InsuranceIncentives.pdf
or feel free to call:
Murphy's Law Home Inspections at 813-228-6631
Note that the above is provided as an information piece and is not a guaranty or warranty of any kind. Please inquire of your insurance agent if you have specific questions.
Please note that this is not a guaranty of any specifics. The purpose of this piece is for informational purposes only. Your insurance agent should be your final source of information/verification.
